14.04.2017

For the rear-wheel drive sedan VAZ-2103 (LADA 1500) or simply “troika”, the domestic manufacturer initially provided a new engine 2103 with a displacement of 1.5 liters, built on the basis of 2101. This model also used proven engines from a “kopeck” to 1 .2 liters and from VAZ-21011 by 1.3 liters. VAZ 2106 engines for the third Zhiguli model were produced in small quantities.

Engine VAZ 2103

The 1.5-liter four-cylinder in-line carburetor power unit of the VAZ 2103 received an overhead camshaft, a timing chain drive and a high engine block, which allows the installation of a crankshaft with an extended piston stroke.

Zhiguli engines often suffer from camshaft wear or the lack of a tensioner in the drive chain, which needs to be tightened every 10 thousand kilometers. If a loud knocking noise occurs in the engine, you will have to adjust the valve clearances to avoid a drop in power, increased fuel consumption, valve burnout, and other things.

Also among the disadvantages of the engine for the “troika” is the need for constant adjustment and cleaning of CO. If the engine overheats, pay attention to the pump.

If tripping occurs, you need to change the compression.

Engine tuning is possible in a wide range: from boring to compressor and turbines.

Among motorists, the VAZ-2103 engine is in good standing, compared to other units in the line. The long service life is due to the availability of spare parts and their low cost. With careful treatment of the engine and timely maintenance, the VAZ-2103 will travel not 125 thousand kilometers declared by the manufacturer, but all 180-200 thousand kilometers.

Engine VAZ 2106

The 1.6-liter VAZ 2106 engine became a continuation of the VAZ 2103 and, as a consequence, 2101. The main differences from its counterparts are in the piston with a diameter increased to 79 mm, while the engine block remained unchanged.

There is also an injection unit 21067, which differs in its covered cylinder head from the Niva-21214 injection engine. Practice has shown that the “six” carburetor is more stable than the injector.

In general, the VAZ 2106 in-line engine has 4 cylinders, an overhead camshaft and a chain drive. Despite the possible service life of up to 180-200 thousand kilometers, among motorists the VAZ-2106 is considered less reliable than the “three ruble”. For the smooth functioning of the six engine in winter, it has to be heated for at least five minutes at 1500-2000 rpm.

The disadvantages of the VAZ-2106 include increased requirements for oil, which can affect the increase in cylinder diameter. It often happens that oil consumption is a liter or more per thousand kilometers, which requires replacing rings, valves, or other things.

Also among the disadvantages of the “six” are increased wear on the camshaft, engine detonation, and engine knocking due to defects in the piston pins or connecting rod bearings. If the carburetor engine operates unstable, pay attention to the jets. An engine that stalls at idle requires adjusting the air damper.

When the engine heats up or boils, you need to check the thermostat, radiator and the presence of air in the cooler.

Trouble in the 2106 engine is caused by incorrectly adjusted valves, valve burnout, worn-out cylinder head gasket and low-octane gasoline.

Engine vibration is affected by worn-out cushions 2106, as well as an imbalance of the crankshaft and cardan.

You can add power to the VAZ-2106 by boring the engine by 33 mm under the piston by 82 mm; you cannot bore any more, since the walls of the block become thinner.

Engine VAZ 21011

The 1.3-liter VAZ 21011 power unit is an improved version of the “penny” engine. The main difference is the increase in piston diameter to 79 mm, which made it possible to add volume and successfully combine a short piston stroke and a good cylinder diameter, guaranteeing the unit high speeds, modest fuel consumption and confidence on the road.

All the disadvantages of the 21011 are identical to the disadvantages of the 2101 engine.

Engine VAZ 2101

The 1.2-liter VAZ 2101 power unit became the basis for the entire VAZ family. Unlike their prototype - the FIAT 124 engine, domestic engineers increased the center-to-center distance, which later allowed them to “play” with the engine displacement, which varied from 1.2 liters to 1.8 liters.

VAZ 2101 is an in-line carburetor unit with 4 cylinders, an overhead camshaft and a timing chain drive. Engines 1970-74 the releases turned out to be more reliable, since their production was controlled by FIAT specialists.

The disadvantages of the VAZ-2101 include increased wear of the camshaft and the need to constantly adjust valve clearances. Oil consumption on a “penny” reaches 0.7 liters per 1000 km.

Due to defects in the thermostat, the engine often overheats. Overheating of the 2101 motor is also indicated by fan failure, pump failure, or low-quality fuel.

The smokiness of the VAZ 2101 is caused by burnout of piston rings, wear of valve seals, processing of guide bushings, etc., which will force you to hand over the car for engine overhaul. As experienced owners of cars with a VAZ 2101 engine note, the shortcomings of the unit can be listed and repaired endlessly.

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The demand for Datsun cars is constantly decreasing. All this happens because all models have an outdated design and primitive body design.

But recently it became known that the upgraded Datsun GO and GO+ will go on sale in October.

Compact vans went on sale 5 years ago. And therefore, both models received a new transmission - the X-tronic CVT. The automatic transmission itself is far from new; it is also installed on the Nissan Juke.

As an engine, only a single naturally aspirated engine with a volume of 1.2 liters and a power of 68 hp is available to buyers.

The GO+ version differs from the regular GO only in the number of seats. There are seven of them in GO+, but only five in GO.

The equipment of the updated models has been slightly expanded. Now the top-end configuration has: a stability control system, an additional Airbag, a multimedia system that can connect to smartphones.

The price for the updated cars has not been disclosed. Let us remind you that you can purchase a Datsun Go on the Indian market at a price starting from 332,078 rupees (299,000 rubles). And the Datsun Go+ will cost at least 386,588 rupees (349,000 rubles).

Many drivers, even with extensive driving experience, have encountered a situation where the air leaves a tubeless wheel, but there are no visible punctures or cuts on it.

Even a professional tire service worker cannot detect them. What could be the reason for such depressurization of the wheel, and what could be the way out of this situation?

Most modern car models are equipped with tubeless tires. Their peculiarity is that they allow you to maintain the existing pressure in the tires with minor damage for some time. This is the reason that this type of rubber is considered the safest, since rubber with a camera can burst when driving at high speed.

Methods for detecting a puncture. Most often, tire deflation occurs due to a puncture or side cut. However, it often happens that the driver cannot detect the location of the damage that caused such depressurization. To do this, he has to go to a tire shop. Even if this happened while traveling in a countryside area, the best option would be to replace the damaged wheel and have it diagnosed at a tire shop.

The tire service worker in this case acts as follows. First, he increases the pressure in the wheel by 1-1.5 atmospheres above normal, and tries to hear by ear where the air leak occurs. If there is no result, the most likely thing is that he will moisten the suspected location of the leak with soap and water and look for it in this way.

If this does not help, there are two options. The first is to submerge the wheel completely in water, and look for escaping air bubbles at the leak site. If the cause is a sharp object caught in the wheel, then you will have to disassemble the wheel and run a rag along its inner surface, which will definitely catch on it.

No damage to the rubber. If the technician was unable to detect the damaged section of the rubber, then there are only two reasons why the tire might go flat - damage to the disc or damage to the nipple. In the first of them, the tire cannot fit tightly enough to the disk due to its deformation. This may be the result of hitting an uneven road at high speed or falling into a deep hole. If it is still in a condition suitable for repair, rolling it on a special device to restore its original shape can correct the situation.

The cost of this action will depend on the shape of the disk, as well as its type - cast or stamped.

If the problem is in the spool, then it is easier to replace it due to its cheapness.

Foreign objects. Another reason for a loose fit of the rim and, accordingly, the possibility of air escaping, is sand or rust getting between it and the rubber. Although in this case the air does not come out of them as quickly as in the case of a puncture or cut. To fix it, remove the wheel, clean the rim well, and then lubricate the joint with a special silicone-based lubricant. If there are no other reasons, the leak will stop.

The last point may be low air temperature, at which air loss from car rubber is also possible. When moving, the situation is the opposite - as a result of heating the rubber, the pressure increases.

Bottom line. Proper monitoring of the condition of tubeless tires will help ensure safety and increase its service life. In addition, you should also pay attention to compliance with the air pressure levels in the tires.

Many myths regarding cars and their manufacturers are popular among motorists. For example, some drivers warm up their vehicles even in the summer; they believe that police cars are much better equipped than those of ordinary citizens, and that large cars are more reliable than small ones. In fact, most of these myths are not confirmed, but there are also those that have been verified by science.

Electric cars do not pollute the environment. It is generally accepted that about 80% of cars, including electric cars and hybrid models, are recyclable and do not harm the environment. In fact, no manufacturer has yet been able to experimentally confirm the benefits of electric vehicles.

The VAZ 2103 engine deserves special attention due to its great popularity among classic cars. This power unit was installed not only on its own model, but also on other modifications of the Zhiguli.

What engines was equipped with the VAZ 2103

The VAZ 2103 power plant is a classic model, part of the AvtoVAZ OJSC engine line. This is a modernized version of the FIAT-124 unit, developed by domestic engineers back in the second half of the last century. The changes affected the camshaft and the inter-cylinder distance.

The tuning of the FIAT-124 engine was carried out with high quality, because in the future its mass production did not stop for decades. Of course, restylings were carried out, but the core of the engine remained the same. The peculiarity of the VAZ 2103 engine is that its timing shaft is driven by a chain and not a belt.

The 1.5-liter power unit represents the third of four generations of the classic. This is the heir to the 1.2 liter VAZ 2101 and 1.3 liter VAZ 21011 engines. It preceded the creation of the powerful 1.6 liter VAZ 2106 unit and more modern injection engines for front-wheel drive cars. All modifications of the VAZ 2103 engine were distinguished by improved technical capabilities.

VAZ 2103 appeared in 1972 and became the first four-eyed Zhiguli model. Maybe this was the reason for equipping the car with a new and powerful unit that develops 71 hp. With. It was rightly called the most “survivable” engine of its time - even a mileage of 250 thousand km did not have a detrimental effect on it if the driver adhered to the factory rules of operation and maintenance. The normal service life of this engine was 125 thousand kilometers.

The improved performance of the VAZ 2103 power unit is immediately noticeable in the design features. The engine is equipped with a different cylinder block - as much as 215.9 mm instead of 207.1 mm. This made it possible to increase the working volume to 1.5 liters and install a crankshaft with an increased piston stroke.

The camshaft is driven by a chain without a tensioner. It is not provided, and therefore the tension has to be checked and adjusted regularly.

More features.

1. Valve clearances are subject to periodic adjustment, since the timing belt is not equipped with hydraulic compensators.
2. The cylinder block is cast iron, the head is cast from an aluminum alloy.
3. The camshaft is made of steel and has the peculiarity of 1 untreated journal with six edges.
4. It is paired with either a carburetor with a VROZ (vacuum ignition regulator) or an injection system, but with an appropriate timing belt - the design of the cylinder head has been changed.
5. The lubrication pump is located in the engine crankcase.

The technical capabilities of the engine are as follows:

• the cylinder diameter was returned to 76 mm;
• The piston stroke was increased by 14 mm;
• engine volume in cubic centimeters became equal to 1452 cubic meters. cm;
• two valves work with each cylinder;
• the engine is powered by gasoline with an octane rating of AI-92 and higher;
• The oil used is within the range of 5W-30/15W-40, its consumption is 700g/1000 km.

It is interesting that the subsequent VAZ 2106 engine received cylinders with a diameter increased to 79 mm.

Pistons

The internal combustion engine elements of the VAZ 2103 are made of aluminum and are oval in cross-section. The size of the piston at the top is smaller than at the bottom. This explains the peculiarity of the measurement - it is carried out only in a plane that is perpendicular to the piston pin and located at a distance of 52.4 mm from the bottom.

According to the outer diameter, VAZ 2103 pistons are classified into 5, every 0.01 mm. They are divided into 3 categories every 0.004 mm according to the diameter of the hole for the finger. All data on piston diameters can be viewed on the lower part of the element - the bottom.

For the VAZ 2103 power unit, a piston type with a diameter of 76 mm without a recess is suitable. But for VAZ 2106 and 21011 engines this figure is 79, the piston has a recess.

Crankshaft

The VAZ 2103 crankshaft is made of super-strong material and has nine journals. All necks are thoroughly hardened to a depth of 2–3 mm. The crankshaft has a special seat for installing the bearing.

The neck joints are channelized. They carry oil for the bearings. The channels are plugged with caps pressed for reliability at three points.

The crankshaft of the VAZ 2103 is similar to the VAZ 2106, but differs from the ICE units of the “kopek” and the eleventh model in the size of the crank. The latter is increased by 7 mm.

Dimensions of half rings and journals of the crankshaft.

1. The half rings have a thickness of 2.31–2.36 and 2.437–2.487 mm.
2. Molar necks: 50.545–0.02; 50.295–0.01; 49.795–0.002 mm.
3. Crankpins: 47.584–0.02; 47.334–0.02; 47.084–0.02; 46.834–0.02 mm.

Flywheel

The part is cast iron with a steel ring gear that is connected to the starter gear. The crown is pressed using the hot method. The teeth are thoroughly hardened by high frequency currents.

The flywheel is secured using 6 self-locking bolts. The location of the clamps has only two positions according to the marks. Centering of the flywheel with the crankshaft is carried out through the front bearing of the gearbox drive shaft.

Table: main technical characteristics.

What engine can be installed on a VAZ 2103 instead of the standard one?

Domestic cars are good because with a sufficient budget it will be possible to implement almost any planned project. Even when connecting the engine to the gearbox there are no particular difficulties. Thus, almost any power unit is suitable for the VAZ 2103. The main thing is that it must fit in size.

Rotary engine

Until a certain time, only special police forces and the KGB were armed with cars with such engines. However, tuning enthusiasts in the USSR, folk craftsmen, found and installed a rotary piston engine (RPE) on their VAZ 2103.

The RPD can be easily installed on any VAZ car. It goes to Moskvich and Volga in a three-section version.

Diesel engine

The diesel engine is mated to the standard VAZ 2103 gearbox using an adapter plate, although the gear ratios of the engines are not at all suitable.

1. Driving with a diesel Volkswagen Jetta Mk3 will not be very comfortable, especially after 70–80 km/h.
2. The option with a diesel unit from the Ford Sierra is a little better. In this case, you will have to change the design of the tunnel, install a gearbox from a BMW and make some other changes.

Motors from foreign cars

In general, foreign-made engines have been and are often installed on the VAZ 2103. True, it is impossible to avoid additional modifications in this case.

1. The most popular engine is the Fiat Argenta 2.0i. About half of the owners of tuned “threes” installed these engines. There are practically no problems with installation, however, the engine is a bit old, which is unlikely to please the owner.
2. Engines from BMW M10, M20 or M40 are also suitable. We have to modify the struts, rework the flywheel and replace the axles.
3. Engines from Renault Logan and Mitsubishi Galant are praised by craftsmen, but in these cases the gearbox has to be changed.
4. And, probably, the best option is the power plant from Volkswagen 2.0i 2E. True, such an engine is not cheap.

VAZ 2103 engine malfunctions

The most common defects found on the engine:

• big “gorge” of oil;
• difficult launch;
• floating speed or stopping at idle speed.

All these malfunctions are associated with various reasons, which will be discussed below.

The engine gets very hot

Experts call the main reason for overheating of the engine unit a lack of refrigerant in the system. According to the rules, before leaving the garage, the driver is required to check the level of all technical fluids each time. But not everyone does this, and then they are surprised to find themselves with a “boiling” internal combustion engine on the side of the road.

Antifreeze may leak from the system. In this case, there is a malfunction - a violation of the integrity of the cooling system. Antifreeze stains on the floor of the garage in which the car was parked directly indicate to the owner that there is a leak. It is important to eliminate it in a timely manner, otherwise there will not be a drop of liquid left in the tank and system.

The reasons for the leak are as follows.

1. Most often, refrigerant leaks are caused by hose clamps that are not tightened tightly enough. The situation is especially bad if the clamp is iron and it cuts the rubber pipe. In this case, you have to change the entire segment of communication.
2. It also happens that the radiator begins to leak. In such a situation, it makes more sense to replace the element, although small cracks can be repaired.
3. Antifreeze leaks through the gasket. This is the most dangerous situation, since the liquid will go inside the engine, and the car owner will not notice any leaks. It will be possible to determine the “internal hemorrhage” of the system only by an increase in refrigerant consumption and a change in its color to “coffee with milk”.

Another reason for engine overheating is a non-working radiator fan. On a VAZ 2103, the quality of cooling by the engine blades is extremely important. The slightest sagging of the drive belt has a negative effect on it. But this is not the only reason for the element to be released.

1. The fan can simply deteriorate and burn out.
2. The fuse responsible for the electrical circuit fails.
3. The contacts on the fan terminals are oxidizing.

Finally, overheating of the internal combustion engine can occur due to damage to the thermostat.

Engine knock

On a VAZ 2103, engine knock is detected without special equipment, by ear. Take a 1-meter wooden pole, which is applied at one end to the motor in the part being tested. The other side of the pole should be clenched in your fist and brought to your ear. It turns out something like a stethoscope.

1. If a knock is heard in the area of ​​the connector with the oil sump, it is dull, and the frequency depends on the amplitude of rotation of the crankshaft - this is the knocking noise from the worn-out crankshaft main bearings.
2. If the sound is heard above the crankcase connector, it intensifies as the engine speed increases - this is the connecting rod bearings knocking. The noise will become louder as the spark plugs are disconnected one at a time.
3. If the sound comes from the cylinder area and is best heard at low engine speeds, as well as under load, it is the pistons knocking on the cylinder.
4. A knocking sound in the head area when you sharply press the accelerator pedal indicates worn piston seats.

VAZ 2103 engine smokes

As a rule, at the same time as the smoke, the engine eats up oil. It may be gray in color and increase with increasing idle speed. The reason is related to the oil scraper rings that require replacement. It is also possible that one of the candles is not working.

In some cases, this happens due to a ruptured gasket or insufficient tightening of the head bolts. On older engines, there may be a crack in the block head.

Troubles the engine

The phrase “troubling engine” means that one or more cylinders are not working. The power plant is not capable of developing full power and does not have the required traction force - accordingly, fuel consumption increases.

The main causes of tripping are: faulty spark plugs, incorrectly set ignition timing, loss of tightness in the intake manifold area, etc.

Engine repair

The easiest way to repair a power plant is to replace consumables. However, real restoration of the internal combustion engine involves its removal, disassembly and subsequent installation.

Before you begin the operation, it is important to prepare the correct tools.

How to remove the engine

Algorithm of actions.

Now you will need to prepare protection for the body - install a wooden block between the engine and the body. He will insure in case of possible damage.

Replacing earbuds

They are thin semicircular plates of steel, and are cages for bearings.

The earbuds cannot be repaired as they have a fixed size. Parts have to be replaced due to physical wear and tear, as over time the surfaces wear out and a backlash appears, which is important to eliminate in a timely manner. Another reason for replacement is rotation of the liners.

Replacing piston rings

The entire procedure for replacing piston rings comes down to three steps:

• removal of attachments and cylinder head;
• checking the condition of the piston group;
• installing new rings.

If you have a puller, removing old rings from the piston will not cause any difficulties. If you don’t have a tool, you can try using a thin screwdriver to loosen the ring and remove it. First of all, the oil scraper ring is removed, then the compression ring.

New rings must be inserted using a special mandrel or crimp. Today they are sold in any auto store.

Oil pump repair

The oil pump is the most important component of the VAZ 2103 engine lubrication system. With its help, lubricant is pumped from the crankcase through all channels. The first sign of a pump malfunction is a decrease in pressure, and the cause is a clogged oil receiver and a clogged crankcase.

Oil pump repair involves draining the oil, removing the pan and washing the oil receiver. Other causes of unit failure include a broken pump housing. To restore the part, special tools are used, such as an impact driver, a soldering iron, a set of wrenches and a screwdriver.

Video: about repairing the VAZ 2103 engine

The VAZ 2103 engine and its modifications are considered one of the best in the class. However, over time they also require repairs and replacement of components.

The washed and cleaned cylinder block is installed on the stand and the missing studs are wrapped.

Lubricate the cylinders, pistons, oil seals, bearing shells and thrust half-rings of the crankshaft with engine oil. Inserts without a groove on the inner surface are placed in the seat of the middle main bearing and in its cover, and liners with a groove are placed in the remaining seats and in the corresponding covers. The crankshaft is placed in the main bearings and two thrust half-rings are inserted into the rear support sockets with the recesses facing the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft; Moreover, a steel-aluminum half-ring is placed on the front side of the rear support, and a metal-ceramic half-ring (yellow) is placed on the rear side. On engines produced before 1980, a cermet half-ring must also be installed.

Install the main bearing caps in accordance with the marks. Then check the axial clearance of the crankshaft (the gap between the thrust half-rings and the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft). To do this, install indicator 1, as shown in the figure, and move shaft 2 with screwdrivers, checking the axial clearance using the indicator, which should be in the range of 0.06-0.26 mm. If the gap exceeds 0.26 mm, the thrust half-rings are replaced with others, new ones of normal size or repair ones, increased by 0.127 mm.

Place the rear oil seal holder gasket onto the crankshaft flange, and install the bolts securing the front clutch housing cover into the holder sockets. Place the holder with the oil seal on the mandrel 41.7853.4011 and, moving it from the mandrel to the crankshaft flange, attach it to the cylinder block. Install the front cover 6 of the clutch housing using two centering bushings.

Mandrel 41.7853.4011 for installing a holder with an oil seal on the crankshaft

Install the flywheel on the crankshaft so that mark B is opposite the axis of the connecting rod journal of the fourth cylinder.

After this, the flywheel is blocked with clamp A.60330/R and secured to the crankshaft flange.

Using the bushing from set A.60604 for engines 2101 and 2103, or 02.7854.9500 for engines 21011 and 2106, or using the adjustable bushing 67.7854.9517, pistons with connecting rods are inserted into the cylinders. The “P” mark on the pistons should face toward the front of the engine. Sets of bushings for crimping piston rings during installation of pistons into cylinders include four bushings - one for nominal size pistons and three for oversized (repair) pistons. Therefore, it is necessary to select a bushing suitable for the size of the piston being installed.

Install the liners into the connecting rods and connecting rod caps, connect the connecting rods to the crankshaft journals and tighten the connecting rod bolts. The caps are installed so that the cylinder number on the cap is opposite the cylinder number on the lower head of the connecting rod.

Place the sprocket and oil pump drive shaft on the crankshaft and secure it with a thrust flange.

The gasket and cylinder head assembly with the intake pipe, exhaust manifold and valve mechanism are installed using two centering bushings on the block. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in two steps, as indicated in Section. "Removing and installing the cylinder head."

Loosen the nuts of the valve adjustment bolts and tighten the adjustment bolts deeper so that the valve arms lower and do not interfere with the installation of the bearing housing with the camshaft.

Rotate the flywheel so that the mark on the crankshaft sprocket coincides with the mark on the cylinder block. Place the sprocket (preliminarily) on the camshaft assembled with the bearing housing and turn it so that the mark on the sprocket is opposite the mark on the bearing housing. Then remove the sprocket and, without disturbing the position of the camshaft, install the bearing housing on the cylinder head and secure it by tightening the nuts in a certain sequence. After this, a chain guide is installed on the cylinder head.

Install the camshaft drive chain in the following sequence:

• lubricate the chain with engine oil, put it on the camshaft sprocket and insert it into the drive cavity from above, positioning the sprocket so that the mark on it coincides with the mark on the bearing housing. Then install the lock washer and the sprocket mounting bolt, without tightening it all the way;
• put a sprocket, a lock washer, and a bolt on the oil pump drive shaft without completely tightening it;
• put the chain on the crankshaft sprocket and install the chain tensioner shoe and tensioner without tightening the cap nut so that the tensioner spring can press the shoe; wrap the chain limiting pin into the cylinder block;
• turn the crankshaft two turns in the direction of rotation, which will ensure the necessary chain tension, and check that the marks on the sprockets match the marks on the cylinder block and on the bearing housing. If the marks match, then, having blocked the flywheel with lock A.60330/R, finally tighten the sprocket bolts, the cap nut of the chain tensioner and bend the lock washers of the sprocket bolts. If the marks do not match, then repeat the operation of installing the chain.

Adjust the gap between the camshaft cams and the valve drive levers. Install the camshaft drive cover with gasket and oil seal on the cylinder block without completely tightening the fastening bolts and nuts. Using mandrel 41.7853.4010, center the position of the cover relative to the end of the crankshaft and finally tighten the nuts and bolts of its fastening. Install the crankshaft pulley and tighten the ratchet.

Lubricate the oil filter O-ring with oil and install the filter by manually screwing it to the fitting on the cylinder block. Install the crankcase ventilation oil separator, the breather cap and secure the oil separator drain pipe clamp. Install the oil pump and oil sump with gasket.

Install the coolant pump, generator bracket and generator. Place the belt on the pulleys and adjust its tension. The heater radiator inlet pipe and the outlet pipe are mounted on the cylinder head. Attach the heater radiator outlet pipe to the coolant pump and exhaust manifold. Install the sensors of the control devices, the drive gear of the oil pump and the ignition distributor.

They install the ignition distributor, for which:

• remove the cover from it, check and, if necessary, adjust the gap between the contacts of the breaker;
• turn the crankshaft until the compression stroke begins in the 1st cylinder, and then, continuing to turn the crankshaft, align mark 4 with mark 2;
• turn the rotor to a position in which its outer contact will be directed towards the contact of the 1st cylinder on the ignition distributor cover, and, holding the distributor shaft from turning, insert it into the socket on the cylinder block so that the center line passing through the spring latches , was approximately parallel to the engine centerline.

Secure the distributor to the cylinder block, install the cover and connect the wires. Screw the spark plugs into the cylinder head, install the key 67.78J2.9515 on them and tighten with a torque handle.

The fuel pump is mounted according to the instructions in section “Removing and installing the engine and its components.” They install a heat-insulating shield with gaskets, a carburetor and attach hoses to it. The carburetor is closed with a technological plug. Install the cylinder head cover with gasket and fuel line bracket. Pour oil into the neck on the cylinder head cover.

The VAZ 2103 engine is a classic power unit, part of the line of engines developed and manufactured by AvtoVAZ OJSC.

To summarize, we can say that all of this family (2101 - 2130) are developed on the basis of a deeply modernized FIAT-124 engine. The changes carried out by domestic designers concerned the upper camshaft and the center-to-center distances of the cylinders.

It was these changes that made it possible to modernize the engines more than once in the future, without stopping their mass production. The 2103 engine differs from the other power units of this model range (except for “”) in that the timing shaft is driven by a steel chain.

Specifications

The power unit was installed on VAZ cars: 21023, 2103, 21043, 21053, 21061, 2121.

Description

The VAZ 2103 engine is manufactured using a “high” cylinder block (215.9 mm instead of 207.1 mm), which made it possible to increase its working volume to 1.5 liters and install a crankshaft with an increased piston stroke.

The unit is a classic version of an engine with an overhead gas distribution mechanism.

The camshaft is driven by a chain drive, and there is no chain tensioner. Therefore, chain tension must be checked and adjusted regularly. In addition, the valve clearances also need to be adjusted, since the gas distribution mechanism does not have hydraulic compensators.

• The cylinder block is made of cast iron, and its head is cast from an aluminum alloy. The camshaft is made of steel and differs from other models by the presence of one untreated journal, which is shaped like a hexagon.
• The carburetor, which is installed on the VAZ 2103 engine, is equipped with a distributor with a vacuum ignition timing regulator. After the advent of injection power units, a modified cylinder head with a corresponding gas distribution mechanism began to be installed on the engine.
• To operate the water pump (pump), a drive with a V-belt with a cross-section of 10x8 mm is used.
• Oil is supplied from the crankcase to the internal channels of the cylinder block and to the friction pairs using an oil pump located in the crankcase of the power unit.
• The 2103 engine was equipped with both a classic and non-contact ignition system.

Maintenance

The VAZ 2103 engine has a high degree of unification at the level of parts and assembly units, and therefore its repair associated with the replacement of components does not cause any difficulties.

Like all VAZ power units of that time, VAZ 2103 engines require quite complex and labor-intensive maintenance. When carrying out routine maintenance it is necessary:

1. Every 10-15 thousand kilometers, check and, if necessary, adjust: tension of the timing chain; valve clearances in the cylinder head;
2. Clean and adjust the carburetor regularly.
3. Change the engine oil after every 10,000 km.
4. Check the engine regularly for coolant and engine oil leaks.

According to numerous owners of cars with VAZ 2103 engines, this power unit is one of the most unpretentious and reliable among all engines of the classic engine family.

The only condition is careful regular maintenance and operation in the modes recommended in the vehicle’s operating manual. If this requirement is met, the service life of the 2103 engine can reach 300 thousand km.

Malfunctions

Engine 2103 is characterized by the same malfunctions as other classic VAZ engines. The most common:

There are also other malfunctions when operating VAZ 2103 engines. In general, it is better to diagnose engine malfunctions in a specialized service station.

Tuning

You can add power to the 2103 motor in various ways:

The easiest way is to bore the cylinders to a diameter of 79 mm. This will increase their total volume to 1.6 liters. Installing pistons with a diameter of 79 mm allows you to increase power to 75 hp. With. In this case, the torque will be 115 Nm at 3,000 rpm.

1. A further increase in power can be achieved by increasing the piston stroke to 84 mm. For this, TRT pistons and a crankshaft from the VAZ 2130 are used. This crankshaft is usually used in cases where they want to increase power and torque at low and medium speeds. At the same time, the engine power will increase to 80-85 hp. With.
2. There is a more complex tuning option, in which: the channels of the cylinder head and intake manifold are bored and polished; select the appropriate camshaft. Correctly selected parts can increase engine power up to 100 hp. With.
3. Installing a 0.5 bar compressor together with a modified cylinder head makes it possible to increase the power of the power plant to 125 hp. With.
4. More expensive ways to increase the power of the 2103 engine are also possible, but the price of components and payment for work associated with modifying parts, assembling the engine and adjusting it may exceed the cost of both the engine and the car as a whole.

Engine VAZ 2103

Engine characteristics 2103

Years of production – (1972 – present time)
Cylinder block material – cast iron
Power system – carburetor/injector
Type – in-line
Number of cylinders – 4
Valves per cylinder – 2
Piston stroke – 80 mm
Cylinder diameter – 76 mm
Compression ratio – 8.5
Engine capacity 2103 – 1452 cm3.
Engine power 2103 – 71 hp. /5600 rpm
Torque – 104 Nm/3400 rpm
Fuel – AI93
Fuel consumption - city 9.4l. | track 6.9 l. | mixed 8.9l/100 km
Oil consumption – 700 g per 1000 km
VAZ 2103 engine weight - 121 kg
Overall dimensions of engine 2103 (LxWxH), mm - 565x541x665
Mas lo for the VAZ 2103 engine:
5W-30
5W-40
10W-40
15W-40
How much oil is in engine 2103: 3.75 l.
When replacing, fill in about 3.5 liters.

VAZ 2103 engine life:
1. According to the plant – 125 thousand km
2. In practice – up to 250 thousand km

Tuning
Potential – 200 hp
Without loss of resource - 80 hp.

The engine was installed on:
VAZ 21023
VAZ 2103
VAZ 21043
VAZ 21053
VAZ 21061
VAZ 2107

Malfunctions and repairs of the VAZ 2103 engine

Engine VAZ 2103 1.5 l. carburetor in-line 4-cylinder with an overhead camshaft, the timing belt of the 2103 engine has a chain drive. The VAZ 2103 engine block is tall, more on that below. The service life of the 2103 engine, with careful operation and timely maintenance, exceeds the 125 thousand km established by the factory and reaches 180-200 thousand km.
The main differences between the 2103 engine and the increased block height by 8.8 mm from 207.1 mm to 215.9 mm to allow the installation of a crankshaft with an increased piston stroke, due to which the engine volume increased to 1.5 liters.
As noted in previous articles, Lada engines have a problem with camshaft wear. Due to the fact that the chain drive does not have a tensioner, the chain needs to be tightened, the engine also needs constant (every 10 thousand km) adjustment of the valve clearances, this will be indicated by a loud knocking sound in the VAZ 2103 engine when the engine is idling, audible from a standstill driver with the hood closed. Many people have a question, why adjust the valves, the answer is simple - power will decrease, fuel consumption will increase, the valve will burn out and many other pleasures of life. Adjustment of the VAZ 2103 engine valves must be done either by a master or with his own hands. To other problems, toWeber and Ozone arburetors constantly require CO adjustment and cleaning. It often happens that the VAZ 2103 engine gets hot, look for the problem in the pump, 99% this is it. Often when the engine in a 2103 misfires, there can be a lot of reasons, most often a burnt-out valve; in any case, you need to measure the compression and show the car to a mechanic. Many VAZ 2103 engine malfunctions repeat the problems of the 2101, due to their close relationship. For a more complete picture and so as not to miss anything, read about.
However, pAccording to popular opinion, the 2103 engine is the most reliable and unpretentious among the classic line of engines, and given the prices for spare parts for the VAZ 2103 engine, you don’t have to wonder why the classics are still driving along our streets.

Tuning the VAZ 2103 engine

Boost engine 2103

There are a lot of methods for modifying the VAZ 2103 engine, like all classics, from boring to a compressor with turbines, but let’s start in order. How to boost a VAZ 2103 engine, the cheapestand simple tuning of the VAZ 2103 engine was and remains a cylinder bore of 3 mm for a 79 mm piston from a VAZ 21011 or from a VAZ 2106, the output is 1.6 liters. Sharpening further, at 82 mm, will not work due to the too thin walls of the block.
To further increase the volume, you need to increase the piston stroke to 84 mm. Increasing the volume in this way reduces the maximum operating speed; a low-end engine is not the best choice for racing, but still. To increase the power of the VAZ 2103 engine by piston stroke, install a VAZ 2130 crankshaft, and also use TRT pistons, the connecting rods are seated to 134 mm. The disadvantages of TPT pistons are their lower strength compared to standard ones, the thermal load on the ring and the likelihood of piston burnout.

Engine boring 2103

1.6 l. 79x80 ~75 hp
Maximum torque ~115Nm at 3000rpm
With this configuration we get exactly the 2106 motor.
- larger diameter piston, standard stroke
1.7 l. 79x84 ~ 80 hp
Torque engine, non-racing configuration.

How to boost a VAZ 2103 engine by refining the cylinder head

The three-wheel engine uses the VAZ 2101 cylinder head, the main disadvantage of which is that it was developed for small-volume units. Accordingly, the flow sections of the channels do not correspond to the increased volume; this must be corrected by boring and polishing the channels.
Polishing and boring the VAZ 2103 cylinder head channels and manifold will significantly reduce intake resistance, engine power increases by 10% throughout the entire range. How to polish and which shafts to select is described in the article “Tuning the VAZ 2101”, due to the identity of the engines, all this applies to the engine of the Lada troika. The modification of the 2103 engine does not end there; a correctly selected camshaft for the 2103, as well as a modified head, can produce more than 100 hp.

Camshaft on VAZ 2103

The rule for choosing a camshaft is simple: in a lower configuration, when the piston stroke is large and it is larger than the cylinder diameter, you need to take a lower shaft with a phase of up to 270, a larger valve lift. Such an engine will turn out to be quite high-torque, urban and will drive much better than the standard, while the high speeds will disappear. Which camshaft to choose for the lower ends, Estonets 1, Nivovsky 213 or something similar in parameters will do. For the top configuration, we accordingly select a wide-phase top shaft with a large valve lift.The standard head without modifications will accept the Mastermotor 48 camshaft, OKB Engine 480 and the like. More wide-phase ones will require additional work. The disadvantages of shafts with a wide phase are traction at the bottom; the angrier the shaft, the worse the ride at the bottom and the more uneven the idle, but by losing the bottom we gain high power at the top. It’s up to you to decide which direction to move and whether to move at all; the basic and most popular principles of boosting the 2103 engine were presented to you as simply and easily as possible.

Classic compressor

The compressor for 2103 is an excellent option for inexpensively inflating a Lada; in stores there are ready-made installation kits with a pressure of 0.5 and 0.7 bar from an auto-turbo. Installing a 0.5bar compressor on a classic is quite simple and requires minimal modifications; paired with a modified cylinder head, the engine produces more than 125 hp. This method is opposed by the price of all activities.

Turbo classic

This is, without a doubt, the most expensive and unprofitable method of boosting a VAZ 2103 engine. Your first cost will be converting the engine to an injector. Then we purchase a turbo kit for the classic, prices start from $1.5 thousand. Most kits are built on the basis of the Garrett GT17 turbine, they come without modification of the piston, but blow up to 0.5 bar. In this case, a classic compressor is more rational. In the case of a total modification of the 2103 engine, with the replacement of the piston, installation of the correct turbo shaft (phase 270-280, maximum lift), this kit will produce up to 1.2 bar with a power of more than 140 hp. The cost of such modifications will cost more than the car itself, even without taking into account the chassis, gearbox, brake system and other things 😀